Support The Moscow Times!

Salon

city Unknown
If the center of the Russian household is its kitchen, then cookbooks must be among the most valuable treasures of the family library. Few Moscow apartments after World War II lacked a copy of "The Book of Tasty and Wholesome Food" (Kniga o Vkusnoi i Zdorovoi Pishche), which proudly touted the unprecedented standards of Soviet life. Though the book has repeatedly been reissued since, its modern incarnations pale in comparison to the early editions' raised covers, colorful pictures of caviar and quotes from Josef Stalin.

These days, classics on the kitchen shelf include the epic works of Vilyam Pokhlebkin, a historian with a passion for cuisine. Famous for their meticulous detail, few of Pokhlebkin's recipes take less than five hours of preparation. Yelena Molokhovets' legendary opus, "A Present to Young Housewives" (Podarok Molodym Khozyaikam), written over a hundred years ago and reissued many times after the Soviet Union's collapse, is a curiosity rather than a practical manual for the modern household, what with its nonchalant recommendation that "if you have unexpected visitors, go to your cellar to fetch a pork hindquarter" and measurments in buckets.

The explosive growth of Russia's book market has not left cookbooks out of the running. Publishers quickly caught on to the West's popular trend of mixing fiction and gastronomy, with one of the first successes being Tsentrpoligraf's "At the Table with Nero Wolfe" (Za Stolom s Niro Vulfom), surprisingly not a translation of the epicurean detective hero's English-language cookbook, but an excellent combination of prose and cuisine.

Other titles offer insight into the recipes of yore, from the feasts of ancient Greece to the sumptuous banquets of the Romanov family. A recent presentation of "The Decadence Cookbook" (Povarennaya Kniga Dekadansa) created quite a stir in academic circles thanks to an improvised striptease by Irina Prokhorova, the director of the publishing house and one of the most respectable pillars of Moscow's literary scene.

This past holiday season served up a new variation on the theme, "Shkola Zlosloviya's Kitchen" (Kukhnya Shkoly Zlosloviya), based on Tatyana Tolstaya and Dunya Smirnova's popular celebrity talk show on NTV. Playing on the word "kitchen" in more ways than one, the book peers behind the scenes of the show, offering unaired fragments of interviews, photographs, choice dialogues and, of course, numerous recipes with comments and illustrations. It's a natural common denominator for the show's varied guests: Politician or rock star, the passion for food is alien to no one.

Sign up for our free weekly newsletter

Our weekly newsletter contains a hand-picked selection of news, features, analysis and more from The Moscow Times. You will receive it in your mailbox every Friday. Never miss the latest news from Russia. Preview
Subscribers agree to the Privacy Policy

A Message from The Moscow Times:

Dear readers,

We are facing unprecedented challenges. Russia's Prosecutor General's Office has designated The Moscow Times as an "undesirable" organization, criminalizing our work and putting our staff at risk of prosecution. This follows our earlier unjust labeling as a "foreign agent."

These actions are direct attempts to silence independent journalism in Russia. The authorities claim our work "discredits the decisions of the Russian leadership." We see things differently: we strive to provide accurate, unbiased reporting on Russia.

We, the journalists of The Moscow Times, refuse to be silenced. But to continue our work, we need your help.

Your support, no matter how small, makes a world of difference. If you can, please support us monthly starting from just $2. It's quick to set up, and every contribution makes a significant impact.

By supporting The Moscow Times, you're defending open, independent journalism in the face of repression. Thank you for standing with us.

Once
Monthly
Annual
Continue
paiment methods
Not ready to support today?
Remind me later.

Read more