utting from the sea where Atlantic meets Arctic is a rugged land of trolls and reindeer and blazing sunshine in the wee hours of the morning. Norway's untamed mountains and fjords stretch for 1,600 kilometers along the leading edge of Europe, protecting the rest of the continent from the harshest northern winds. Its challenging wilderness, with its chilly climate and craggy slopes, was as inhospitable to early settlers as it is attractive to outdoorsmen today.
The unyielding land forced the first Norwegians to turn to the sea to survive. They learned to draw from its riches and ply its rough waters to trade. The Vikings' seafaring skill led them on adventures plundering Northern Europe and on expeditions as far as Iceland, Greenland and today's Newfoundland. Today's Norwegians are typically Scandinavian and tidy, but the spirit of their history and surroundings gives them a rugged edge. And the adventure of the 20th century is of an altogether different nature.
Norway's unbelievably unspoiled terrain has become a magnet for climbers, hikers, rafters, bikers, anglers and every kind of winter sports enthusiast. Even those of a less hardy nature flock to see the spectacular beauty of the fjords, where nonchalantly idyllic farmhouses crouch next to sheer cliffs screaming down into the sea.
Just a century ago Norway was still terribly poor. Only Ireland saw a larger percentage of its population emigrate to the Americas. But the Norwegians gained their independence in 1905 and never looked back once they struck offshore oil in the North Sea. These riches have found their way to the bottom, thanks to the cradle to grave social system. But so much circulating wealth has created an unhappy side effect for tourists -- Norway is ridiculously expensive.
The Fjords
They're the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Norway -- fingers of high mountains linking with fingers of deep sea. Toward the ocean the wind-worn headlands are battle-weary from the assault of the elements. But the serene, glassy water of the fjords' interiors reflects towering peaks, rustic cottages -- and cruise ships. How else could you draw them north of the Arctic Circle but with one of Mother Nature's most dazzling shows?
Try to go out of your way to get to ?lesund, a small, seaside city strung between two fjords in the lee of several islands. There, densely nestled houses watch over cobblestone streets and crystal-clear waters. The view from Fjellstua, the local overlook, is unforgettable.
Bergen, one of the chief trading centers of the Hanseatic League during the Middle Ages, still betrays its history with the old guild signs hung over the wharfside stores. Today it is Norway's second largest city and offers the most connections for fjord-bound travelers.
There are lots of ways to get to and around the fjords. Biking or trekking is the cheapest alternative, and arguably the most interactive. Be prepared for a serious workout on the inclines. Renting a car will allow you almost as much freedom, with the ability to cover much more territory. But it will cost you -- gas alone is $1.50 a liter.
There is no coastal train, but the Norwegian alternative is far more intriguing. The coastal mail steamer line, Hurtigruten, departs daily on a route from Bergen to Kirkenes, in the extreme north, or vice-versa. The six-day trip, including meals and cabin, runs about $1,152 during the summer. If you want to rough it and save, take your sleeping bag and travel deck class for $679. Call 47-76-92-37-00 for details or call your travel agent to inquire about the many other cruises available.
Mountain Interior
and Romsdal
Worn mountain tops covered by snow and sparsely populated valleys characterize the interior of Norway. Below the tree line is a thick carpet of larch, birch, fir, Norway spruce, pine and wildflowers. Farmhouses, many with grass roofs, and an occasional stave church, dot the landscape. You should always keep your eyes open to spot reindeer, elk, musk oxen and roedeer in the fields and woods.
While the world whips itself into an Olympic frenzy this summer, see where the flame last burned in 1994. Straddling the head of Lake Mj?sa, Norway's largest lake, Lillehammer is a lovely alpine town, and naturally, a playground for all types of winter sports. But even during the off-season, there are plenty of things to see and do.
You can tour the Olympic venues, starting with H'konshall, the large arena containing the ice rink used for figure skating and hockey. Just outside, try the downhill skiing and bobsled simulator for $7. Up the hill is the ski jump and site for the opening and closing ceremonies, with a great view from the top. By the way, the word "ski" is Norwegian -- they invented it.
Also on the mountainside is Maihaugen, an outdoor exhibit of rural farm buildings, homes and stave churches. Included in the admission price is a very good museum of Norwegian history from the Stone Age to the present.
From Lillehammer you can drive or take a train up the beautiful, rural valley to Domb's, the center for all kinds of adventure sports in the region. The Dovrefjell Aktivitetssenter specializes in elk safaris on foot or by canoe, mountaineering, rafting, wilderness excursions and more. They also rent bicycles, canoes, etc. Prices range from $30 to $110. Give them a call at 47-61-24-15-15. Not far away in V'g'moyou, you can try hang gliding or rafting. Call Jutul Stasjon at 47-61-28-99-71.
Yet another way to get to the fjords is to drive or take a train from Domb's to ?ndalsnes. This route leads through a broad valley that deepens into the Romsdalen gorge as the Rauma River seeks the sea. The river features gushing whitewater -- far too dangerous for rafting -- and excellent salmon fishing. Along the way countless waterfalls tumble hundreds of meters to offer their contribution.
Rock climbers will find Trollveggen irresistible -- a guide drawn to scale shows a tiny Eiffel Tower dwarfed by the immense rock face. Nearby the famous Trollstigen, a road laced with hairpin turns, leads over the mountains to Geirangerfjorden. Mountain climbers and skiers interested in the huge Jostedalsbreen glacier or Jotunheimen National Park with the twin peaks Galdh?piggen and Glittertinden, can call for the "Top of Norway" brochure at 47-67-53-49-00.
Oslo
Oslo is a very pleasant, clean city that rises from the end of Oslofjord through numerous parks and woodlands to the mountains. The only way it could possibly disappoint you is if you're expecting to see one of the great capitals of Europe. Oslo is small -- just 600,000 people.
Originally a successful trading settlement dating from the 8th century, Oslo was renamed Christiania under Danish rule in 1380. The name stuck until 1924 when the historical epithet was restored. The center is quite small and easy to navigate. Karl Johans Gate, which leads from Oslo Sentralstasjon to the Palace, is the hub of cultural and shopping activity.
Akershus is a fortress rising on a bluff in the tradition of Peter and Paul's in St. Petersburg. Inside you will find the Resistance Museum, which documents the Norwegians' struggle against the occupying Nazis in World War II.
Akerbrygge is a rather new waterfront development with restaurants and a small marina. Take the short ferry ride from Akerbrygge to Bygd?y, a peninsula jutting into Oslo's harbor with a big concentration of museums related to the Norwegians' love affair with the sea. There are museums dedicated to Viking ships, the polar expedition ship Fram, Thor Heyerdahl's round-the-world craft Kon Tiki and Ra, and the Norwegian Maritime Museum.
Never far over your shoulder looms the Holmenkollen ski jump used in the 1952 Winter Olympic Games. For what is undoubtedly the best view of the city and the harbor, you can take a train to Holmenkollen station and walk up the hill. An added incentive for the climb is the ski museum.
A more cerebral experience is Vigelandpark, a huge sculpture garden by Gustav Vigeland where 200 sculptures follow the progress of man from fetus to corpse. The screaming toddler is the local favorite, but feel free to choose. Get there on the trolley to Frognerparken station, where you will also find the Oslo City Museum.
Local sons Ibsen and Munch also have their own museums, but be warned -- "The Scream" is in the National Gallery.
The night life in Oslo is sophisticated and fun. The crowds are remarkably civilized and take a little pushing and shoving in stride. Kristiania seems to be the hippest of the hip places right now. The second-floor lounge band is so wrong it's right. Miller's succeeds at the impossible combination of sports bar and disco. Check the free newspaper Natt & Dag for more clubs, concerts and other events.
If you're planning on blitzing Oslo's multitudinous museums, you might want to consider getting the Oslo Card for $26. Basically, it gets you free transportation and free access to just about every museum, plus some extras. The public transport system is good, but expensive: $3.60 for a single ride or $8 for a one-day pass. There's a tourist information building at the inland end of Akerbrygge. Bring a wheelbarrow for all the free brochures.
Getting There & Around
Aeroflot flies from Moscow to Oslo for $420 round-trip standard fare and $350 if you book seven days in advance. SAS's lowest round-trip fares to Norway from Moscow are $614 to Oslo and $706 to Bergen. Finnair flies to Bergen for $715.
A more adventurous way to travel to Norway from Russia is by rail. You can take a train from Moscow to Murmansk and connect to a Norwegian train to Kirkenes. You can connect with the Hurtigruten steamer there or in Bergen.
A ScanRail pass will allow you free travel on all trains in Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland. Prices start at $145 for four travel days in a 15-day period. The pass must be purchased before arrival in Scandinavia, so ask your travel agent. Travelers bound for the fjords can reach the coast by train at Stavanger, Bergen, ?ndalsnes, Narvik, Kirkenes.
Accommodation
In the mountains try Domb's Bed and Breakfast at 47-61-24-18-61 or Domb's Vandrerhjem at 47-61-24-10-45, each for about $44 per night. Dovregubbens Hall rents cabins from $50 per day. In Lillehammer, Bj?rns Kro and Motell, at 47-61-25-83-00, rents cabins from $25 per day.
In Oslo, the Astoria Hotel, at 47-22-42-00-10, is near the train station and has a breakfast buffet and clean, modern rooms starting at $117 . Haraldsheim Hostel, at 47-22-15-50-43, offers accommodation from $29.
Check out Norway on the 'Net: Norway Link at http://www.sn.no/norway/ or an Oslo site at http://www.sn.no/oslopro/.
The unyielding land forced the first Norwegians to turn to the sea to survive. They learned to draw from its riches and ply its rough waters to trade. The Vikings' seafaring skill led them on adventures plundering Northern Europe and on expeditions as far as Iceland, Greenland and today's Newfoundland. Today's Norwegians are typically Scandinavian and tidy, but the spirit of their history and surroundings gives them a rugged edge. And the adventure of the 20th century is of an altogether different nature.
Norway's unbelievably unspoiled terrain has become a magnet for climbers, hikers, rafters, bikers, anglers and every kind of winter sports enthusiast. Even those of a less hardy nature flock to see the spectacular beauty of the fjords, where nonchalantly idyllic farmhouses crouch next to sheer cliffs screaming down into the sea.
Just a century ago Norway was still terribly poor. Only Ireland saw a larger percentage of its population emigrate to the Americas. But the Norwegians gained their independence in 1905 and never looked back once they struck offshore oil in the North Sea. These riches have found their way to the bottom, thanks to the cradle to grave social system. But so much circulating wealth has created an unhappy side effect for tourists -- Norway is ridiculously expensive.
The Fjords
They're the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Norway -- fingers of high mountains linking with fingers of deep sea. Toward the ocean the wind-worn headlands are battle-weary from the assault of the elements. But the serene, glassy water of the fjords' interiors reflects towering peaks, rustic cottages -- and cruise ships. How else could you draw them north of the Arctic Circle but with one of Mother Nature's most dazzling shows?
Try to go out of your way to get to ?lesund, a small, seaside city strung between two fjords in the lee of several islands. There, densely nestled houses watch over cobblestone streets and crystal-clear waters. The view from Fjellstua, the local overlook, is unforgettable.
Bergen, one of the chief trading centers of the Hanseatic League during the Middle Ages, still betrays its history with the old guild signs hung over the wharfside stores. Today it is Norway's second largest city and offers the most connections for fjord-bound travelers.
There are lots of ways to get to and around the fjords. Biking or trekking is the cheapest alternative, and arguably the most interactive. Be prepared for a serious workout on the inclines. Renting a car will allow you almost as much freedom, with the ability to cover much more territory. But it will cost you -- gas alone is $1.50 a liter.
There is no coastal train, but the Norwegian alternative is far more intriguing. The coastal mail steamer line, Hurtigruten, departs daily on a route from Bergen to Kirkenes, in the extreme north, or vice-versa. The six-day trip, including meals and cabin, runs about $1,152 during the summer. If you want to rough it and save, take your sleeping bag and travel deck class for $679. Call 47-76-92-37-00 for details or call your travel agent to inquire about the many other cruises available.
Mountain Interior
and Romsdal
Worn mountain tops covered by snow and sparsely populated valleys characterize the interior of Norway. Below the tree line is a thick carpet of larch, birch, fir, Norway spruce, pine and wildflowers. Farmhouses, many with grass roofs, and an occasional stave church, dot the landscape. You should always keep your eyes open to spot reindeer, elk, musk oxen and roedeer in the fields and woods.
While the world whips itself into an Olympic frenzy this summer, see where the flame last burned in 1994. Straddling the head of Lake Mj?sa, Norway's largest lake, Lillehammer is a lovely alpine town, and naturally, a playground for all types of winter sports. But even during the off-season, there are plenty of things to see and do.
You can tour the Olympic venues, starting with H'konshall, the large arena containing the ice rink used for figure skating and hockey. Just outside, try the downhill skiing and bobsled simulator for $7. Up the hill is the ski jump and site for the opening and closing ceremonies, with a great view from the top. By the way, the word "ski" is Norwegian -- they invented it.
Also on the mountainside is Maihaugen, an outdoor exhibit of rural farm buildings, homes and stave churches. Included in the admission price is a very good museum of Norwegian history from the Stone Age to the present.
From Lillehammer you can drive or take a train up the beautiful, rural valley to Domb's, the center for all kinds of adventure sports in the region. The Dovrefjell Aktivitetssenter specializes in elk safaris on foot or by canoe, mountaineering, rafting, wilderness excursions and more. They also rent bicycles, canoes, etc. Prices range from $30 to $110. Give them a call at 47-61-24-15-15. Not far away in V'g'moyou, you can try hang gliding or rafting. Call Jutul Stasjon at 47-61-28-99-71.
Yet another way to get to the fjords is to drive or take a train from Domb's to ?ndalsnes. This route leads through a broad valley that deepens into the Romsdalen gorge as the Rauma River seeks the sea. The river features gushing whitewater -- far too dangerous for rafting -- and excellent salmon fishing. Along the way countless waterfalls tumble hundreds of meters to offer their contribution.
Rock climbers will find Trollveggen irresistible -- a guide drawn to scale shows a tiny Eiffel Tower dwarfed by the immense rock face. Nearby the famous Trollstigen, a road laced with hairpin turns, leads over the mountains to Geirangerfjorden. Mountain climbers and skiers interested in the huge Jostedalsbreen glacier or Jotunheimen National Park with the twin peaks Galdh?piggen and Glittertinden, can call for the "Top of Norway" brochure at 47-67-53-49-00.
Oslo
Oslo is a very pleasant, clean city that rises from the end of Oslofjord through numerous parks and woodlands to the mountains. The only way it could possibly disappoint you is if you're expecting to see one of the great capitals of Europe. Oslo is small -- just 600,000 people.
Originally a successful trading settlement dating from the 8th century, Oslo was renamed Christiania under Danish rule in 1380. The name stuck until 1924 when the historical epithet was restored. The center is quite small and easy to navigate. Karl Johans Gate, which leads from Oslo Sentralstasjon to the Palace, is the hub of cultural and shopping activity.
Akershus is a fortress rising on a bluff in the tradition of Peter and Paul's in St. Petersburg. Inside you will find the Resistance Museum, which documents the Norwegians' struggle against the occupying Nazis in World War II.
Akerbrygge is a rather new waterfront development with restaurants and a small marina. Take the short ferry ride from Akerbrygge to Bygd?y, a peninsula jutting into Oslo's harbor with a big concentration of museums related to the Norwegians' love affair with the sea. There are museums dedicated to Viking ships, the polar expedition ship Fram, Thor Heyerdahl's round-the-world craft Kon Tiki and Ra, and the Norwegian Maritime Museum.
Never far over your shoulder looms the Holmenkollen ski jump used in the 1952 Winter Olympic Games. For what is undoubtedly the best view of the city and the harbor, you can take a train to Holmenkollen station and walk up the hill. An added incentive for the climb is the ski museum.
A more cerebral experience is Vigelandpark, a huge sculpture garden by Gustav Vigeland where 200 sculptures follow the progress of man from fetus to corpse. The screaming toddler is the local favorite, but feel free to choose. Get there on the trolley to Frognerparken station, where you will also find the Oslo City Museum.
Local sons Ibsen and Munch also have their own museums, but be warned -- "The Scream" is in the National Gallery.
The night life in Oslo is sophisticated and fun. The crowds are remarkably civilized and take a little pushing and shoving in stride. Kristiania seems to be the hippest of the hip places right now. The second-floor lounge band is so wrong it's right. Miller's succeeds at the impossible combination of sports bar and disco. Check the free newspaper Natt & Dag for more clubs, concerts and other events.
If you're planning on blitzing Oslo's multitudinous museums, you might want to consider getting the Oslo Card for $26. Basically, it gets you free transportation and free access to just about every museum, plus some extras. The public transport system is good, but expensive: $3.60 for a single ride or $8 for a one-day pass. There's a tourist information building at the inland end of Akerbrygge. Bring a wheelbarrow for all the free brochures.
Getting There & Around
Aeroflot flies from Moscow to Oslo for $420 round-trip standard fare and $350 if you book seven days in advance. SAS's lowest round-trip fares to Norway from Moscow are $614 to Oslo and $706 to Bergen. Finnair flies to Bergen for $715.
A more adventurous way to travel to Norway from Russia is by rail. You can take a train from Moscow to Murmansk and connect to a Norwegian train to Kirkenes. You can connect with the Hurtigruten steamer there or in Bergen.
A ScanRail pass will allow you free travel on all trains in Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland. Prices start at $145 for four travel days in a 15-day period. The pass must be purchased before arrival in Scandinavia, so ask your travel agent. Travelers bound for the fjords can reach the coast by train at Stavanger, Bergen, ?ndalsnes, Narvik, Kirkenes.
Accommodation
In the mountains try Domb's Bed and Breakfast at 47-61-24-18-61 or Domb's Vandrerhjem at 47-61-24-10-45, each for about $44 per night. Dovregubbens Hall rents cabins from $50 per day. In Lillehammer, Bj?rns Kro and Motell, at 47-61-25-83-00, rents cabins from $25 per day.
In Oslo, the Astoria Hotel, at 47-22-42-00-10, is near the train station and has a breakfast buffet and clean, modern rooms starting at $117 . Haraldsheim Hostel, at 47-22-15-50-43, offers accommodation from $29.
Check out Norway on the 'Net: Norway Link at http://www.sn.no/norway/ or an Oslo site at http://www.sn.no/oslopro/.
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