Support The Moscow Times!

City Evicts Artists, Sellers From Arbat

Vladimir Vladimirovich, an Arbat personality, selling matryoshka dolls from his new stand on the street Monday. Igor Tabakov
City authorities are sweeping dozens of souvenir stands and artists off Arbat and planning to replace them with a book market on the historical pedestrian zone.

The cobblestone street in central Moscow has been a hub for tourists in search of Soviet kitsch and souvenirs such as matryoshka nesting dolls.

But only six souvenir stands were left as of Monday, and Yulia Baidukova, a spokeswoman for the prefect's office of the Central Administrative District, said all of the stands would be removed in order to "restore the Arbat's historical status as an intellectual and literary center."

"Along the middle of the street, a book market will replace the souvenir stands," Baidukova said.

Tourists searching for street portraits on the Arbat could soon be out of luck as well. A source in City Halls' municipal property department told Interfax on Monday that 30 street portrait artists would be evicted by Friday.

None of the vendors interviewed Monday afternoon at the six remaining stands said they had been informed of the city's plans. "Until [Mayor Yury] Luzhkov himself comes and tells me to move, I'll stay here," said Ivan, who refused to give his last name but said he had been selling souvenirs on the street for seven years.

Once a bohemian gathering place, the Arbat has become increasingly commercial in recent years, filling up with cafes, banks and stands selling tourist knickknacks.

"In the 1990s, this was the gathering point for poets, jugglers and classical and ethnic musicians," said Oleg, who has been selling his portraits on Arbat since 1987. "Now people come to eat and consume."

He complained that local authorities disrespect the Arbat's street artists, who -- unlike the souvenir stands -- represent the "soul" of the historic street.

"We artists are the last remnants of the soul of the street," said Oleg, who refused to give his last name. "Without us, there will be no more Arbat. If they kick us out, they might as well destroy Red Square."

Baidukova said she could not confirm the eviction of portrait artists and explained that City Hall departments were working simultaneously on the project.

The souvenir shops will eventually be relocated to other parts of the neighborhood, Badukova said. Pilot bookshops located on the street have been commercially successful, she added.

Vladimir Vladimirovich, a renowned Arbat personality who has garrulously sold homemade matryoshka nesting dolls on the street for 19 years, appears to be one vendor the city wants to keep around.

"Four days ago, they gave me this new spot, so hopefully I won't be forced out," he said, pointing to his brand new stand on a spot allocated to him on the street's periphery. "If I had to leave, it would be a real pity."

Sign up for our free weekly newsletter

Our weekly newsletter contains a hand-picked selection of news, features, analysis and more from The Moscow Times. You will receive it in your mailbox every Friday. Never miss the latest news from Russia. Preview
Subscribers agree to the Privacy Policy

A Message from The Moscow Times:

Dear readers,

We are facing unprecedented challenges. Russia's Prosecutor General's Office has designated The Moscow Times as an "undesirable" organization, criminalizing our work and putting our staff at risk of prosecution. This follows our earlier unjust labeling as a "foreign agent."

These actions are direct attempts to silence independent journalism in Russia. The authorities claim our work "discredits the decisions of the Russian leadership." We see things differently: we strive to provide accurate, unbiased reporting on Russia.

We, the journalists of The Moscow Times, refuse to be silenced. But to continue our work, we need your help.

Your support, no matter how small, makes a world of difference. If you can, please support us monthly starting from just $2. It's quick to set up, and every contribution makes a significant impact.

By supporting The Moscow Times, you're defending open, independent journalism in the face of repression. Thank you for standing with us.

Once
Monthly
Annual
Continue
paiment methods
Not ready to support today?
Remind me later.

Read more