Like camels and water buffalo, Australia's ostriches began to run wild after demand for their services -- in this case, for feathers for hats -- was killed by changing fashion.
Now they have been rounded up, new birds have been imported and a breeding program has increased the number of Australian ostriches to about 60,000 from 45,000 a year ago.
First exports of Australian ostrich meat have begun to Singapore, Japan and Hong Kong in 500 kilogram shipments.
Exports also have also been made to the United States and strong inquiries are being received from Europe, says Chas Dale, general manager of Australian Ostrich Co. Ltd., or AOC.
Dale says he can only guess at how big ostrich meat exports might become. But in aiming for a niche in Asia's food trade, prospects for ostrich farming are bigger than ever.
"Its potential is on a giant scale," said AOC chairman Gary Allen.
The AOC started regularly processing ostriches only in July and the company believes it will take a couple of years before the Australian industry completes the transition from breeding to commercial operation.
The commercial stage will be reached when the industry has about 30,000 breeding hens, compared with less than 10,000 breeders at present, Dale said.
About 4,000 Australians now have some form of investment in the industry, the membership of the Australian Ostrich Association has grown to about 2,700 members, and an Ostrich Odyssey '96 convention in Adelaide featured what AOC describes as "a far sighted, ambitious agribusiness plan."
The main focus is on ostrich meat, but the industry is also aiming to provide premium leathers, oils and by-products.
Where is ostrich meat's market edge when AOC sells at 35 Australian dollars a kilogram, more than double the price of a prime beef steak?
And why would Asia go for Australian ostrich meat rather than the South African original?
Dale admits ostrich meat is not cheap, describing it as near the top of the restaurant price scale.
But there is increasing recognition of health value, with ostrich meat at only 0.5 percent fat, he said.
Furthermore, tenderness made ostrich sashimi "absolutely beautiful," while Singapore was delighted with a stir fry ostrich combination, he said.
So far Australian ostrich meat exports are mainly for traditional Western steak-type meals. But AOC is working with Asian tasters to find out what this huge market wants.
AOC's target is exports of about 100 tons of ostrich meat over the next 12 months.
Australian ostrich producers believe they will establish leadership in Asia by focusing on the region and meeting its unique culinary tastes, not simply supplying bulk meat.
The native South African ostrich is very different from Australia's big bird, the emu, which is mainly farmed for its body oil.
Ostrich meat is not as gamey as emu, ostriches have two toes against three for emus, and ostriches are about three times bigger.
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