Dacha, schmacha. Before the summer burns itself out, spend a few nights under the stars v polodkakh -- in tents. Especially among young Russians, there is a great tradition of camping in this country, in conditions from the low end of dachadom to genuine wilderness. Camping is allowed everywhere, which means no permits but also no park police, so be careful if you venture far from the city. Here, for campers with a wide range of hygienic expectations, is a list of outdoor options.


Russian campers rave about Siliger, a breathtaking spot in the Tverskaya region, northwest of Moscow. Siliger is located outside the town of Ostashkov, which can be reached by train from Belorussky Vokzal. There, Russian families lose themselves in the wilderness for vacations. There are also expanses of open forest near Zhukovka, located north of the city along the elektrichka line from Belorussky Vokzal to Usova.


For the civilized camping experience (i.e. sites with wooden furniture and volleyball nets) try Sunny Forest Camping, a riverside clearing located along the road to the diplomatic beach near Nikolina Gora. Campsites are partitioned by 20 to 30 meters of trees, and come complete with fireplaces and outhouses. Food is available, and the militia speak English. Take Rublyovskoye Shosse out of Moscow almost to the outer ring, then bear left along Uskpenskoye Shosse.


If you are looking for a slightly bigger adventure, Pilgrim Tours offers a four-day hiking trip to the Russian Caucasus, near Mt. Elbrus, Europe's highest summit. After flying into Mineralniye Vody, campers spend one day hiking in the mountains, then ride up the slope of Elbrus to a shelter at 13,800 feet. At this altitude, downhill skiing is possible year-round. Depending on the size of the excursion group, costs per person range from $320 to $390, plus $252 for the airfare. Pilgrim also offers a mountain-bike trip in the Moscow suburbs of Zvenigorod, Semyonkova and Borovsk, covering about 120 kilometers over the course of two days. The package includes food, tents and guides. Depending on the size of the tour, prices range from $75 to $150. Other options include a four-day kayak trip on the Tvertsa River, a five-day hiking trip in the Crimea and a bicycle tour along the Crimean coast. Pilgrim Tours, a subsidiary of Adventure Travel Company, is located at 17 Pervy Kirpichny Pereulok. Tel. 365-4563 or fax 369-0389.