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Style With Substance

W.T.F.C. design comfortable outfits for the fashionable muscovite. Their fall/winter collection featured mainly grays and black and is toned down compared to their previous shows. Unknown
Thumping techno beats, bright lights, spike heels, and hundreds of Russian fashion aficionados energized the otherwise lackluster atmosphere of industrial northern Moscow.

But the hipsters were there for good reason, because tucked away in a luxury souvenir store edgy trendsetters, White.Trash.For.Cash., were debuting their fall/winter 2008 collection in a show called "Russian Gift."

Drawing inspiration from grunge, hip-hop and funk, the designers have created a chic and eclectic brand that over six years has managed to establish a presence and earn a large number of admirers in the Russian fashion industry.

"We're against Sovok, which is something awful," WTFC designer Marina Galkina said, referring to the limited and drab style options available to young people during Soviet times. "We've rejected this style and are following more of a Western style."

The designers pride themselves in creating comfortable clothes that promote originality and self-expression. They consider their work a protest against "ubiquitous glamour," which they believe has tainted the Russian fashion scene since the beginning of the post-Soviet era.

The W.T.F.C. shows also have a slightly rebellious edge: Their last collection debuted in a Stalin-era underground bunker near the Taganskaya metro station in Moscow. This time it was held at a souvenir shop against a backdrop of Russian teapots and dolls

"At first we rejected the location, thinking that it wasn't appropriate for the show," Galkina's husband and fellow WTFC designer Maxim Kushnaryov admitted. "But we realized that the audience would find it cool and interesting and decided to use it."


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The designers -- Yekaterina Karmazina, Maria Sergina, Vladimir Kovanovsky, Natalia Bulyen, Kushnaryov, and Galkina -- live and work in Moscow, but they consider their taste international, Kushnaryov said.

"Their clothes are very much in fashion and are great for the hip Muscovite who wants to stand out in a crowd," said WTFC model Andrei Tolstov, dressed in faded jeans, a white graphic T-shirt and a blue button-down sweater. "This is urban street wear. I love what they do. We have similar views on culture, life and what not only a Russian but also a European man should look like."

"I draw inspiration from Western designers like [Alexander] McQueen, but we're original. We have our own ideas," said Galkina.

Unlike those of previous seasons, the color palate of the fall and winter lines was bleak, featuring shades of white, gray and black but next to nothing in between. Galkina explained that the designers intended for the clothes to be modest in an attempt to undermine the popular belief in Russia that fashionable clothes must be flashy and extravagant.

"We tried to do something minimalist, not gaudy," Galkina said, adding that, "In this particular show, we went for a very urban theme, in which the models were hooligans."

Another reason for the melancholy hues was that Galkina has been battling depression for the past year.

"Events in an artist's life affect his creativity, where he gets his inspiration and what he creates," Kushnaryov said.

In the show were retro skinny pants, belted mini-dresses and glamorous shades. One piece in particular left a lasting impression: A kilt worn by a male model showcased the brand's goal of reinventing fashion.


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As soon as the show came to a close, the venue was abuzz with people's impressions of the new line.

"At first, I felt quite anxious about it because I didn't know how critics would respond," Kushnaryov said. "After looking through pictures and reviews of the show, however, I realized that the show was, indeed, a success and was satisfied."

"I really enjoyed the show," said Grigory Kornachyov. "I especially liked the knit pieces with black and white photograph prints."

However, some audience members, such as Anastasia Gashkhaus, found the show disappointing. She felt that the garments failed to live up the designers' previous work.

"I expected more," Gashkhaus said. "There was no trash. This is White.Trash.For.Cash. after all. There should have been trash."

For more information see www.whitetrashforcash.com

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