With Russia's frigid winter fast approaching, even the most politically correct foreigner is sure to be tempted by the softness and warmth of a fur hat.


From fox to sable, beaver to mink, fur is an elegant refuge from the cold.


But foreigners shopping for a hat should beware of buying at markets or from fast-talking street vendors, who may be selling you dog hair as beaver or something else you didn't bargain for.


A little research shows that Moscow is actually a fur lover's paradise with plenty of trustworthy outlets and manageable prices.


Styles of fur hats do not as a rule change with the fashions from year to year -- and they are such a constant institution in Russia that they are always fashionable.


There are approximately 15 various styles of hats to choose from, of which the most popular are:


?Ushanka. The traditional square-shaped hat with ear flaps is intended for men but often worn by women. It is the most common style and comes in most furs, including rabbit, mink, beaver, raccoon and sable. Ushanki, from the Russian word "ukho," or "ear," is sold in genuine or fake varieties, with the fakes having ear flaps that are only cosmetic and do not fold down. The fake, of course, is cheaper.


?Sharik or "ball." These soft-structured hats are shaped like a ball. Worn mostly by women and usually made out of fox fur, they are particularly suited for very cold weather.


?Eskimoska. Like a sharik but has pom-poms which can be tied under the chin. They are also made of fox fur.


?Boyarka. With its little dome, sturdy frame and all-around brim, this women's hat, which echoes the noble shape of the crown of Monomakh, is usually available in mink and beaver.


Kubanka, tabletka and pilotka. lso popular styles for women's hats, the last two are associated with the Anna Karenina look..


The kubanka is a tall rigid hat that originated in the Caucasus, where it was sported by men but is now worn by women. The kubanka is usually made from Persian lamb, which is also referred to as karakul.


The tabletka is shaped like a pillbox but is smaller and daintier and is generally recommended for younger women. Tabletki are made from Persian lamb.


The pilotka is almond-shaped, stiff and asymmetrical and, according to some salespeople, recommended for older women. Pilotki come in different furs.


To check the quality of the hat:


?Blow on the fur. If it parts and springs back at once, the fur is of good quality and recently made.


?Feel the hat. It should be dense and soft.


?If the hat is of soft construction, scrunch it. The hat should immediately regain its shape.


?Look for a label. Often, hats have labels bearing the date of manufacture. It is best to purchase the freshest hat.


?Check linings for conscientious workmanship.


The following is a sampling of hat stores:


Mekha, 13/15 Stoleshnikov Pereulok, tel: 923-8938. This large state store has a wide selection of all styles and furs ranging from simple to ornate. A silver fox sharik will cost 190,000 rubles, and a Persian lamb tabletka can start as low as 60,000. A more opulent and fluffy lynx hat starts at 825,000. There are also combinations of standard styles with applications of rhinestone and other colorful gems for those who favor a glittery look. On Saturday afternoons a fur specialist is available for consultation.


Reim, 8 Stoleshnikov Pereulok, tel: 229-3164. This Italian-Russian joint venture has plenty of high-quality fur hats at reasonable prices. The staff is helpful and the prices are not unreasonable. A very good mink pilotka starts at 145,000, and occasionally you can find hats in blue mink, a prized natural color.


Atelier Chance, 12 Stoleshnikov Pereulok, tel: 229-8085. A less glamorous but equally well-stocked store where the hats are made on the premises. The shop also has every imaginable style but seems to have a particularly good supply of Persian lamb pilotki and kubanki, which start at 51,750 rubles.


Mekha, 13 Piatnitskaya Ulitsa, tel: 231-9880. A simple but well-stocked store with a good selection of blue mink asymmetrical pilotki in most sizes for 175,000, as well as the usual styles of hats, including silver fox shariks starting at 137,500 rubles.


Yakovlev and K, GUM, Second Floor, no phone. This shop has a wonderful choice of, among other hat styles, ushanki, both genuine and fake. A genuine beaver ushanka will cost 290,000 rubles, a splendid sable ushanka approximately 1,500,000, while raccoon and red fox fake ushanki range from 210,000 to 230,000 rubles.


All the stores provide guarantees on hats.


Keeping Your Hat in Shape





Fur shops offer the following hat-care tips:


?Keep the hat away from direct heat.


?If your hat gets wet, do not dry it in direct sunlight or by heat. Instead, let it dry at room temperature. After it dries, comb it gently with a metallic comb (except for Persian lamb).


?Fur should be brushed to keep it free of dust.


?During the spring/summer season, wrap your hat in paper and store it in a box in a closet. Use mothballs in the closet but do not let the hat come in contact with the mothballs, as naphthalene can change the color of the fur.