The GAIshniki may have it good, but customs officials here have it better. and if you don't know how to deal with Russian customs agents, you will have it worse.


Many of us have perfected the art of a casual conversation with the GAI - traffic police -- and the sometimes 1, 000-or-more ruble tip, but working with customs can be more costly, both in time and money.


For first-time importers or exporters, it is highly advisable to work through a freight forwarder -- a specialized cargo handling service. It may cost more money, but the time saved and headaches averted usually make it worthwhile.


In Moscow there are few full-service Western forwarders. Most Western handlers work through agents, some good, some bad.


Companies report that of those forwarders that are set up here, Armadillo Ltd. (American), Panalpina (Swiss) and MosTransEurope (Dutch) are among the better ones, depending on your mode of transport. For air cargo shipments, Lufthansa, while not a forwarder, generally moves the most cargo, after Aeroflot. The carrier has been known to provide shippers with some good advice.


The first-time importer or exporter must submit copies of the company statutes, joint venture agreement or articles of association, company registration, the actual contract, and a notarized copy of your foreign trade number assigned when the company was registered.


If working through a forwarder, you also need to submit a stamped letter of permission to allow the forwarder to do your paperwork.


If tariffs must be paid, a ruble bank account is necessary, although a forwarder can pay if another permission slip is submitted, this time stamped and sealed.


The second shipment, in principle, works much like the first, although eventually customs will assign you a number which cuts down on the paperwork. Speedy clearance is naturally dependent on your relationship with the customs agent. First time importers often must provide customs with a sample to expedite shipments.


"They're getting expensive", said one importer, noting that presents as valuable as cars have been given away to speed up the clearing process.


There is a danger in this, though, besides the fact that it is illegal. Customs officials, sources say, can get greedy and sometimes end up out of work.


Establishing a relationship with one doesn't mean he'll be around for the next shipment. Established forwarders can reduce grease, but don't expect miracles.


A freight forwarder isn't 100 percent nerve-proof. Then again, not much having to do with business here is.