With champagne flowing, a fleet of 25 disco balls and flesh-colored pantsuits, the scene at Denis Simachyov's Fall/Winter 2009-10 collection Moscow opening almost threatened to overshadow the clothing itself on Saturday night. Almost.

With his outlandish style of men's and women's clothing, as well as his love for long-mustachioed models, Simachyov has made his brand one of the hippest in Russia, with expensive T-shirts featuring the visage of Prime Minister Vladimir Putin, baggy Cossack pants and eclectic combinations of leather and fur.

Known for mixing traditional Russian aesthetics with satirical pop-culture references, Simachyov is also one of the few Russian designers to have made a real name for himself around the world.

This year's collection, like most of the designer's creations, again draws heavily on ironic juxtapositions and odd combinations of materials. Invites to the event featured Sylvester Stallone as Rambo, riding a horse and spearing a golden dragon a la Saint George, and this image appeared on the back of a leather jacket in the show.

"His ideas are very Russian, but very funny, with a lot of irony," said Ferdinando Baldini, an Italian at the show who owns a gallery in Moscow.

Kung Fu master Bruce Lee also features prominently; his visage adorns a number of sweaters and T-shirts. There was a heavy 1980s feel, with brightly colored headbands in abundance complemented by intricate kaleidoscope patterns on tops and dresses. One model strode down the runway in a full-length, stonewashed denim kimono and was promptly followed by a turquoise leather miniskirt on another.

The biggest cheer of the night, apart from when Simachyov came out at the end and flashed a peace sign to the audience, was when It-Girl and television host Kseniya Sobchak walked down the runway clad in a black leather jacket and a rainbow headband.

Denis Simachyov Stallone on a Simachyov invite.

The show's audience in Simachyov's studio were greeted at the entrance by a Porsche 911 emblazoned with the designer's signature paisley pattern — slightly more modest than a similar car he covered in kilos of gold last year — and a group of dark-suited, stern security guards.

But inside, amid cloying clouds of expensive-smelling perfume, an army of beautiful people posing for photographers and Simachyov entrenched behind velvet ropes in the VIP section, the event seemed to be trying to shut out the harsher financial reality outside through sheer willpower and gaudy dress sense, although not everyone was fooled.

"The crisis in fashion is making it harder and harder," explained Corrado Manaresi, the head of Simachyov's Italian office. Prices may have to come down, he hinted.

Others, though, were more interested in picking at the collection from the side.

"He used the same thing two years ago," said Zhenya Korshakov, standing at the free bar, referring to a large fur hat on a model.

He was not concerned about how the crisis affected this type of fashion.

"This collection is not at all related to the crisis ... I mean, the people in the metro are not going to be wearing these kinds of clothes."