Natura Viva with its unusual colonial theme, has passed into the history books, and in its place has arrived Dom i Ko. Unusual is not the word needed to describe this new restaurant, however. Dom i Ko sticks firmly to the tried-and-trusted Moscow fashion restaurant formula. Its conservatism is perhaps understandable, because it has an awfully large number of tables to fill. The restaurant is simply huge, spread out over three floors, occupying a whole free-standing mansion. The interior design varies between a minimal chocolate and cream color scheme with modern fittings to more airy pastels and beige with fancy chandeliers.

The menu is equally fashionable and unadventurous. Salads start from 320 rubles for goose breast with cabbage and ginger and raspberry sauce and go up to 1,000 rubles for jamon iberico with tomato and Castelmagno cheese. Hot starters begin at a mere 60 rubles for pies with a variety of fillings, while snails in garlic is the priciest at 450 rubles. Soups range from 250 rubles for gazpacho to 450 rubles for a soup of sterlet and pike-perch.

Meat mains start from 450 rubles for fillet of venison with turnip and beets, while the seafood starting price of 400 rubles gets you a choice of three different dishes: smelt with mashed potatoes and tartare sauce, black mackerel with spicy tapenade, or carp with wild mushrooms. Wine starts from 350 rubles a glass and draft beer starts from 220 rubles for a half-liter of Budweiser. Cocktails, which seem most appropriate for Dom i Ko, begin from around 250 rubles.

Dom i Ko: 19 Dologorukovskaya Ul, Bldg. 7, 749-9023, noon-6 a.m., M. Novoslobodskaya.