A competition for Moscow's most understated, elegant, least tacky, not-at-all-"nouveau" clothing store would probably draw few contenders. With garish boutiques opening throughout the city, such as the first full-fledged Gianni Versace boutique on Kutuzovsky Prospekt, finding an understated store is difficult.


Complete with its glistening black-marble interior and personnel who look only slightly less threatening than their thuggish, gold-bedecked clients, Gianni Versace is Moscow's tacky boutique par excellence.


Palermo, at 21 Pushkinskaya Ulitsa, might carry the most dazzling selection of Thierry Mugler, but shopping there is far from pleasant, with aggressive salespeople following at less than five paces, watching your every move. In far too many boutiques, shopping inevitably means you will be smothered by overzealous shop assistants.


But there are two new shops in Moscow that seem to have got it right -- discreet but always helpful sales staff, extremely attractive interiors and equally attractive merchandise, presented in a convincing way.


Your pocketbook permitting -- and this is no small caveat, given that prices easily run into the thousands of dollars at both stores -- a stop in one of these establishments may be the antidote you need for the all-or-nothing, glitz-or-drab choice more typical of Moscow stores.


If you are looking for dresses by Karl Lagerfeld, Image is the store for you. The first Moscow shop to carry prestigious European lines like Jil Sander and Rena Lange and the celebrated American line of Donna Karan, the store is not as outrageously priced as you might expect. Where, for example, other than a U.S. outlet mall, could you find a simple but exquisite Donna Karan dress for under $400?


When you enter Image, you will be greeted by a fashionably dressed salesperson who will not be offended if you confess that you are just browsing. One side of the shop is devoted to the dark, streamlined creations of Donna Karan, which are now being offered at a 30 percent discount. Karan's lovely jackets are hardly a bargain, however. A midnight-blue long pinstriped blazer is a whopping $1,173; a more simple, gabardine blazer, $1,164.


Jil Sander's creations, barely distinguishable from those of her American counterparts, are also given prominent display. The most interesting article among the German offerings is an olive velvet jacket with gold embroidery, for $2,601. Russia is probably an ideal market for Jil Sander, who was never known for bargain labels. But the variety of tweeds available is well worth a pause; a lovely, dark-brown cashmere coat nearly seems worth the price tag of $3,121.


Chloe and Karl Lagerfeld are amply represented on the top floor, where there is also a surprising choice of shoes from such designers as Jil Sander, Stephane Kelian and Maud Frizon. No pair runs at less than $250. The basement carries a large range of men's classic wear that should suit the moneyed businessman, whether Russian or foreign. Ermenegildo Zegna is featured, with cashmere blazers for $879 or blazers in combinations of silk and wool for $646. Joop! offers plenty of cashmere jackets and coats. For the more casual but no less moneyed businessman, blue jeans run $144, and a highly detailed leather jacket, verging on the "busy," costs $1,310. Walter Steiger provides his famous shoes for an average of $260 -- the same price as in Europe -- as does Stephane Kelian, for slightly more. A Karl Lagerfeld tie runs $70.


Equally elegant and understated is Renoir, a Russian store affiliated with a Swiss establishment. According to Irina Shatova, Renoir's supervisor, prices are on par with those in Switzerland. Although the store is completely Russian, everything about it smacks of Europe. Not surprisingly, the store caters exclusively to a wealthy Russian clientele. "All of our clients are Russian," Shatova says. "Foreigners do not shop here."


But foreigners looking for the high-priced shopping of Swiss and French boutiques would probably feel right at home at Renoir. With men's and women's apparel, the full line of Est?e Lauder cosmetics, elegant accessories and a pale wood interior conceived by a Swiss design company, Renoir is one of Moscow's most attractive boutiques.


The only Moscow shop to carry Sonia Rykiel, Renoir also sells items by such noted designers as Dolce and Gabbana, Christian Lacroix, Max Mara, Kenzo and Bogner, presented artfully and tended by ever helpful sales staff.


A Bogner women's woollen shirt runs $259, and cashmere turtlenecks cost $200. A Christian Lacroix embroidered taffeta ice-skating skirt is available for $189. Sonia Rykiel's woollen creations run high into the hundreds of dollars and peak in a black suit trimmed with black ostrich feathers, for $1,379.


Slightly more down-to-earth price tags can be found on a $579 Max Mara blazer, a $459 Robert Brioni gray flannel jacket, and a fanciful plaid Dolce and Gabbaria jacket for $1,069.


The store also carries men's clothing, which also will not disappoint for variety and quality. But, again, this is the businessman's boutique, with only the most classic and conservative creations of Jean de Castelbajac, Hugo Boss, Lanvin and the ever-classic Ermene-gildo Zegna.


A Boss salt-and-pepper blazer is the cheapest of the blazers -- "on sale" at $449. A variety of shirts by Van Laack and Zimmerli average $169. A nice pair of cotton boxer shorts costs $29. The dizzying selection of beautiful ties does not include anything for less than $89.


Renoir carries plenty of accessories, from Nina Ricci wristwatches and S.S. Dupont pens and pencils to Lacroix silk scarves and Longchamp leather goods. Men and women of a certain taste and financial station will probably be in their element in either of these two stores.





Image is located at 15 Bolshaya Nikitskaya (formerly Ulitsa Gertsena). Open daily 10 A.M. to 8 P.M. Tel. 290-5462. Renoir is located at 15 Bolshoi Cherkassky Pereulok. Open Monday to Saturday 10 A.M. to 7 P.M. and Sunday 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. Tel. 924-6229.