A soup to serve your best friends
12 March 1994
I believe I have to be faithful to you, dear readers. I could just give you a recipe for fresh spinach and chutney dressing which I came across and is making me drool. But what's the point of that? Being winter we don't have fresh spinach. Or really good juicy mangoes to make the chutney. The sort that are warm and squishy and plump. Golden orangy red. Juice running down your chin as you bite into the succulent flesh.Alright, alright, I'll stop. We don't need this tastebud titillation. We need recipes for food that is in abundance. Possibly dull but plentiful.I dragged out my enormous cooking folder from its spot under the window and had a quick trawl. At the moment it is serving its purpose as a wind break more than a book. It is the only large book in my apartment that can be wedged under the floor boards and cut down the wind chill factor. A chill that is wreaking havoc with my room-temperature eggs and softened butter.Actually, room temperature is a strange anomaly here. How do you really judge it? Especially in a city that has winter room temperatures of either about 25 degrees Celsius, or minus 5, depending on the state of your local council's finances.And this is where the pen is mightier than the keyboard. Because let's face it, unless you get very playful with your fonts, page upon page of computer printouts of recipes would probably make your eyes glaze over.My folder contains recipes written on every conceivable piece of paper: envelopes, paper napkins, the backs of particularly steep Russian phone bills. And my favorites are those written on my yellow legal notepaper. There I was, back in the dark days of the 80s, supposedly delving into the mysteries of torts and contracts, and instead all my notes say are tortes and pecans, clever quiches, the best way to preserve peaches. Much more useful, if you ask me. But then I'm not a lawyer.The recipe I was looking for dated from that era. I knew it was on yellow paper and I knew it was in the vegetable section. A greatly expanded section since I gave meat the boot. (Doesn't come anywhere close to the quantity of dessert recipes, but still.)Here it is. And it does not make make me drool. Olive soup.But I have to publish it because I have two large jars of olives in my fridge that are hurtling towards their expiry date. And what do you do with almost two kilos of olives, apart from inviting 50 hungry friends over and not giving them anything else to eat?I could pickle them in my Arles-style celery, garlic and lemon dish, but the celery is a little woody at this time of the year, so there is nothing to do but turn them into soup. Rich mushy soup. You need to serve it with fresh crusty bread because it can be salty. Mine was, made my mouth pucker up pretty well I can tell you. This dish serves four. I will be doubling the ingredients and trying to palm it off to my friends, few of whom like olives, none of whom will like this soup.But that's what friendship is all about -- testing the limits of love as far as it goes.Olive Soup with Garlic Croutons1 1/2 cups chopped olives2 cloves garlic3 cups rich chicken stock1 cup heavy creamSalt and pepperDill for garnish Simplicity in itself, just make sure the soup never comes to a boil. Rinse the chopped olives in water to remove the excess salt. In a saucepan heat the chicken stock, peeled but not chopped garlic cloves. Keep it simmering-- barely a bubble winking the surface -- add the olives, stir well and cook for around 15 minutes. Remove the cloves of garlic, add the cream and salt and pepper. Stir well.Serve warm with fresh dill.Garlic Croutons12 small slices of white bread2 cloves garlic2 tablespoons butterCrush the garlic and stir into the softened butter. If you have a microwave, melt them together for about 20 seconds. Brush both sides of the bread with the garlic butter and cook in the oven until crisp. Serve the soup in deep bowls, with three small slices of garlic in the bottom. The garlic will infuse the soup without overpowering the olive flavor.And if that won't tempt you, here is the marinated Arles olives recipe. Back by popular demand. Good luck finding juicy celery. It is not the season for it. These olives keep for weeks in the fridge, but watch the temperature. I made a batch one morning last week, put them in the bottom of fridge and by evening was feeling peckish. But I had miscalculated. I dragged out the bowl of what I thought was going to be tasty zakusky, and found one solid frozen lump. I don't have a clue about physics or chemistry, but something tells me freezing and defrosting of food is not going to yield a good or safe product.Marinated Arles Olives2 cups unripe green olives 4 cloves garlic1 lemon, juice and skin1 large onion2 cups celery, plus leavesGood olive oilWash the olives if they have been preserved in brine, or drain them if they are stored in olive oil.Crush the garlic, slice the onion finely, peel the lemon and then cut up the flesh into small pieces -- and make sure you don't lose too much juice. You will need to add most of the zest of the lemon as well.Cut the celery finely and tear up the leaves.Pour the olives into a clean glass jar, add the rest of the ingredients and top with enough olive oil to just cover. Stir well, cover, store in the fridge. The flavor is best after a week.
|
|
Tweet |
|
This article has no comments. Be the first to leave a comment |
Discussion
Comments
To post comments you must be registered
Comments via Facebook
Most Read
1.
City Mistakenly Plants Marijuana Field Instead of Lawn
After the city spread soil containing "grass" seeds around the Brateyevo metro station, a field of marijuana plants sprouted up instead of a lawn.
2.
Ruble Hits Lowest Rate in 3 Years
The ruble dipped to a three-year low Thursday as oil prices fell further.
3.
Superjet Flight Data Recorder Found Near Volcano Crash Site
Villagers have found the flight data recorder from the Russian plane that slammed into an Indonesian volcano three weeks ago, killing 45 people.
4.
Putin's Foreign Policy Goes on the Road
In a symbolic gesture, President Vladimir Putin on Thursday arrived in Minsk to pay his first foreign visit as head of state to controversial Belarussian leader Alexander Lukashenko.
5.
European Debt Crisis Driving Workers East
Despite its inconveniences, Moscow has become a magnet for foreign job-seekers, as unemployment in Europe is hitting record highs amid the debt crisis.
6.
Duma Deputy Robbed at Ritzy Hotel
State Duma Deputy Gennady Gudkov was robbed at the upscale Hotel National across from the street from the Kremlin after a conference, Gudkov said Wednesday evening.
7.
China-Russia Airplane Venture Planned
United Aircraft Corporation and Chinese Commercial Aircraft Corporation plan to start a joint venture to develop long-haul aircraft.
8.
Fridman Wants Big Change at TNK-BP
TNK-BP co-owner Mikhail Fridman said BP's Soviet-born partners are urging the British company to return to talks about changing the proportion of the 50-50 partnership.
9.
Russian Railways in Smoking Crackdown, Privatization Freeze
Smokers will find train journeys longer and a tad more frustrating as traditional indulgence of the habit is phased out on Russian Railways' passenger routes.
10.
Police Arrest Young Men for Murder of Japanese Motorcyclist
Investigators say two men aged 20 and 21 stabbed a Japanese motorcyclist to death in order to steal his belongings.
1.
City Mistakenly Plants Marijuana Field Instead of Lawn
After the city spread soil containing "grass" seeds around the Brateyevo metro station, a field of marijuana plants sprouted up instead of a lawn.
2.
McFaul Faces Kremlin Scorn Once Again
The Foreign Ministry assailed U.S. Ambassador Michael McFaul for comments the ministry said went "far beyond the bounds of diplomatic etiquette."
3.
Sweden Wins Eurovision; Grannies Take Second
Sweden’s Loreen won the Eurovision Song Contest in Azerbaijan on Sunday before an international TV audience of 100 million, days after angering Azeri authorities by meeting rights activists critical of the host country’s human rights record.
4.
Ukraine in Uproar Over Status of Russian Language
Ukraine's ruling party has triggered violent protests with a move to upgrade the official role of Russian, a sensitive issue opponents say will split the country.
5.
150 Detained at Anti-Kremlin Rallies
About 150 people were detained Sunday as scores of people gathered for a series of anti-government demonstrations in Moscow and St. Petersburg.
6.
Vkontakte Founder Tosses 5,000-Ruble Notes Out Window
<p>The founder of the social networking site Vkontakte celebrated St. Petersburg’s 309th anniversary over the weekend by tossing paper airplanes carrying 5,000-ruble notes out a building window.</p>
7.
U.S.-Russian 3-Year Multientry Visa Bill to Go to Duma
After months of delays, the government has finalized a much-touted visa agreement with the United States and drafted the corresponding bill.
8.
Kennan's Insight Into the Russian Soul
George Kennan is best known as the author of the containment policy, which served as the overarching principle informing U.S. foreign policy during the Cold War.
9.
TNK-BP Head Quits as Shareholder Crisis Flares
Billionaire Mikhail Fridman resigned Monday as chief executive of TNK-BP, plunging the country's No. 3 oil firm deeper into crisis and challenging co-owner BP's grip on the business.
10.
McFaul and State Department Respond to Attack
The U.S. ambassador and the U.S. State Department said they were surprised by blistering criticism from the Foreign Ministry regarding comments McFaul made to students last week.
1.
Hundreds of Arrests Set Grim Backdrop for Victory Day Celebrations
As Moscow gears up to celebrate its victory in World War II, 67 years ago Wednesday, the shadow of political conflict shrouds the capital as hundreds of arrests cloud Victory Day festivities.
2.
Russian Satellite Takes Highest-Ever Resolution Picture of Earth
A stunning 121-megapixel snapshot of the Earth was taken by a Russian weather satellite in what is thought to be the highest resolution picture of the planet ever taken from space.
3.
City Mistakenly Plants Marijuana Field Instead of Lawn
After the city spread soil containing "grass" seeds around the Brateyevo metro station, a field of marijuana plants sprouted up instead of a lawn.
4.
Bodies, No Survivors Spotted at Superjet Crash
Search and rescue helicopters and volunteers struggling through thick forest and mountainous terrain spotted bodies but no survivors on the Indonesian mountainside where a Sukhoi Superjet 100 crashed by the time darkness forced an end to the search Thursday night.
5.
Tabloid: Superjet Downed by U.S. Industrial Sabotage
A tabloid claims that Russian intelligence agencies are investigating the possibility that the U.S. military may have brought down the Sukhoi Superjet that crashed in Indonesia.
6.
Mysterious Photos Reveal an Unseen WWII
After the end of World War II, Paul Sadler returned home to Chicago with three German books and a photo album from the Dachau concentration camp.
7.
Furniture Magnate Shot Dead in Mercedes in Moscow Region
A 46-year-old furniture magnate was killed with six gunshot wounds to the head and chest early Sunday as he arrived in his Mercedes at his home in the Moscow region.
8.
New Cabinet Has Familiar Cast of Characters
President Vladimir Putin on Monday announced the makeup of the new Cabinet answering to Putin and Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev, with three-fourths of the members having been replaced.
9.
Vladivostok Bridge Climbers Fined 300 Rubles Each
Three thrill-seekers who climbed two Vladivostok bridges earlier this week and took photos from the top were fined 300 rubles ($10) each for trespassing.
10.
Superjet Missing in Indonesia With 50 on Board
A dark cloud was cast Wednesday on the revival of Russia’s aviation industry when a Sukhoi-built Superjet 100 with 50 people on board disappeared from the radar screens of Indonesian flight controllers.


