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Moscow's Syrovarnya Is a Cheese-Eater's Paradise

The dining establishment has retained many of its original factory-space features. It is a cozy space to gorge on Italian cuisine with larger parties of friends and family.

If you didn't blink an eye when the sanctions almost eliminated Italian cheeses from Russian markets, then stop reading. But for those who yearn for fresh mozzarella or creamy burrata, then Syrovarnya, the latest member of the Novikov Group, is for you.

Syrovarnya (Creamery) specializes in the stylish execution of dishes using high quality cheeses. Located in the Badayevsky Brewery complex, the restaurant has found a way around the recent difficulties encountered by many chefs dependent on European cheeses. Arkady Novikov and Dmitry Azarov have mastered cheese production using Italian technology in order to bring excellent cheeses back to the Russian market. So far they produce mozzarella, burrata, ricotta, stracciatella and caciotta, but they plan to produce harder aged cheeses over time in special cabinets within the restaurant. The cheese-making process can even be observed through a glass wall between the dining space and the cheese room.

Classic dishes such as ricotta ravioli and tomato and mozzarella salad have been designed by head chefs Yury Rozhkov and Sergei Nosov to let the cheeses shine through. The majority of dishes are simple with a rustic style, served on painted terra-cotta plates and wooden boards. Syrovarnya brings diners authentic Italian cuisine without a single fresh product imported from Italy.

Start off with one of the selections of focaccia and bruschetta. Mains are divided into fresh stone baked pizzas, homemade pasta dishes, cold salads featuring fresh cheeses and meat dishes from the grill and oven — such as lamb, salmon with roasted vegetables, rabbit ragout with zucchini and pork ribs with buckwheat groats. The homemade ricotta tiramisu is the star of the dessert selection, but the lighter sea buckthorn berry and carrot mousse comes a close second.

The dishes on Syrovarnya's menu are complemented by the artfully rustic interior. The old factory space retains some of its original features, while incorporating sleeker modern features: angular hanging lights, an open kitchen and colorful psychedelic paintings on the white-washed brick walls.

Syrovarnya is the perfect spot for family-style dining, with many dishes ideal for sharing. If you miss a good cheese board, come on down.  

+7 (495) 803 2401
12 Kutuzovsky Prospekt, Bldg. 1. Metro Kievskaya

Contact the author at artsreporter@imedia.ru

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