Escapism comes in many forms: Some go on adventure survival tours, some do heroin, some go out to dinner. In Moscow's restaurants, however, it's never been easy to achieve the full suspension of disbelief needed to make food an otherworldly experience. There's always the flathead at the next table, the stray hunk of dead lettuce, the waitress who refuses to believe you didn't order the $200 bottle of wine she just opened.
Maybe it was the extra space heaters they'd plugged in on one of the coldest nights in this city's history, but Tibet Himalaya, the latest venture by Doug Steele of Hungry Duck fame, immediately struck me as a fine venue for self-delusion. In a radical departure from his accustomed watering-hole theme, with the invaluable help of Tibetan co-conspirators, Steele has gone spiritual. Meditative woodwind music and incense permeated the interior, hung with tapestries depicting various incarnations of Buddha on red and yellow walls beneath a high blue ceiling. A Tibetan monk wandered the aisle, smiling.
The menu, glowing brightly under a black light, had a selection of appetizers, soups and main courses that emphasized marinated meats, coriander, ginger, soy sauce, garlic and hot peppers. I must confess at this point that neither I nor my dining companion had any idea how Tibetan food should look, feel or taste, but the offerings here could be described as dry, refined Szechuan.
Our waitress responded intuitively to eye contact when we wanted to order. We went for appetizers Fried Momo (lamb-filled dumplings, 30 new rubles [$5]) and Chealeey (tongue salted with onions and tomatoes, 40 rubles); Nomad Soup (lamb with cheese, 40 rubles) and Sok Thuk (pork soup with Tibetan noodles, 20 rubles); entr?es Shab-Taak (sliced beef salted with tomato, ginger and chili peppers, 72 rubles) and Lhang-Tsoe Prawns (steamed with ginger and coriander, 180 rubles); dessert Khab-Saay with Honey (a sort of honey-soaked shortbread).
My dining companion started off with a cup of Tibetan tea, a cloudy green buttered substance that, despite its odd taste, lent a sense of authenticity to the meal. The Momo were like Chinese potstickers, but entirely devoid of grease and much more delicate in flavor. The thin slices of tongue had been marinated raw in spices and then warmed, preserving the full flavor of the tender inner meat. The Nomad Soup, a tangy balance of soy, coriander and small cubes of mild cheese, outshone the Sok Thuk, which was relatively bland.
The six steamed prawns, doused in a fresh ginger-coriander sauce, cost a mildly shocking $5 apiece, but, depending on your monthly income, they could be worth a splurge.Beware, however, of the Shab-Taak and any other dish whose description includes the word "chili." I realized something was up when the Dining Companion, a demure, tender-palated Muscovite, stopped eating and broke a sweat. The chili was blow-your-lips-off, secret-delayed-action hot pepper, with which the marinated beef had been cooked to the soft, dryish consistency of ideal jerky. I ordered a buffer of steamed rice and gradually, between large sips of beer, downed the beast.
Tibet Himalaya, 19 Pokrovka. Tel. 917-3985. Nearest metro: Chistiye Prudy.
A Message from The Moscow Times:
Dear readers,
We are facing unprecedented challenges. Russia's Prosecutor General's Office has designated The Moscow Times as an "undesirable" organization, criminalizing our work and putting our staff at risk of prosecution. This follows our earlier unjust labeling as a "foreign agent."
These actions are direct attempts to silence independent journalism in Russia. The authorities claim our work "discredits the decisions of the Russian leadership." We see things differently: we strive to provide accurate, unbiased reporting on Russia.
We, the journalists of The Moscow Times, refuse to be silenced. But to continue our work, we need your help.
Your support, no matter how small, makes a world of difference. If you can, please support us monthly starting from just $2. It's quick to set up, and every contribution makes a significant impact.
By supporting The Moscow Times, you're defending open, independent journalism in the face of repression. Thank you for standing with us.
Remind me later.