Severyane, a new restaurant by the stellar culinary duo of Ilya Tutenkov and Uilliam Lamberti, just opened in Moscow. Georgy Troyan, last year's winner of the "Silver Triangle" award as Russia's best chef, heads the kitchen. The place is already a hit.
The design is minimalist, with a few tricks here and there, like LCD lights that look like candles hanging from the ceiling.
Just about the only thing Russian about Severyane is the huge traditional oven. The name Severyane, which means "the Northerners," doesn't refer to North Russian cuisine, but to an obscure Dutch art house movie, a favorite of one of the owners. This isn't Russian cuisine, or Scandinavian, or any kind of national cookery. The dishes have been created by the restauranteurs.
The most inventive part of the menu is the starters. Try Romano salad grilled in the Russian oven with shrimp and baked pumpkin (600 rubles); or lamb tongue with beet and horseradish sauce (650 rubles); or celery root ground into thin vermicelli with truffle sauce (500 rubles).
The not-to-miss main dish is the beef fillet served with mouthwatering sweet pepper stuffed with oxtail (900 rubles). Another special dish is oven-baked pike perch served with daikon marinated in cuttlefish ink and lemon foam, reminiscent of molecular gastronomy.
There is also a section of the menu intended for groups of people. One of the entries is tomahawk — a one and a half kilo steak (700 rubles for 100 grams). All the main dishes can be served with vegetables grilled in the Russian oven. Try the celery and cauliflower (350 rubles each).
Try some of Severyane's trademark cocktails (450 rubles). The most interesting one is called Lea's, a version of Bloody Mary served with mushrooms. There's also a selection of wine and ten types of beer on tap.
The dessert menu is full of surprises (all for 450 rubles), the main ones being black pineapple (steeped in cuttlefish ink) with coconut cream and sweet fried black olives, and baked apple with marshmallow and beer ice cream. The sweets go great with the signature teas, such as pinecone sweet tea and Kuril Islands tea with lavender (350 rubles each).
+7 (499) 700 0898
facebook.com/severyane.moscow
12 Bolshaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa. Metro Biblioteka Imeni Lenina, Okhotny Ryad
Contact the author at artsreporter@imedia.ru
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