The recently reopened Devi Cafe and Bar is the kind of place New Yorkers and Londoners miss when they come to Moscow — the kind of low-key Indian joint that blends into the concrete enough to hide a damn good restaurant. Moscow has its fair share of decent Indian restaurants, but they usually fall into one of two categories: New Russian experiments and up-market attempts by resident Indians. Devi fits into a third category: the mom and pop Indian cafe. A spic-and-span nook in a basement on the campus of the People’s Friendship University, it’s staffed by Indian students. The restaurant has a new bar and feels like a standard stolovaya , or cafeteria, but the kitchen can do a whole lot better than pelmeni and shashlyk: The food at Devi is as good as you’ll get at any of the capital’s posher South Asian establishments. When I had a meal with some friends there last weekend we all left fat and happy. We took the try-everything, share-everything approach to ordering, and it worked well.

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The recently reopened Devi Cafe and Bar is the kind of place New Yorkers and Londoners miss when they come to Moscow — the kind of low-key Indian joint that blends into the concrete enough to hide a damn good restaurant. Moscow has its fair share of decent Indian restaurants, but they usually fall into one of two categories: New Russian experiments and up-market attempts by resident Indians. Devi fits into a third category: the mom and pop Indian cafe. A spic-and-span nook in a basement on the campus of the People’s Friendship University, it’s staffed by Indian students. The restaurant has a new bar and feels like a standard stolovaya , or cafeteria, but the kitchen can do a whole lot better than pelmeni and shashlyk: The food at Devi is as good as you’ll get at any of the capital’s posher South Asian establishments. When I had a meal with some friends there last weekend we all left fat and happy. We took the try-everything, share-everything approach to ordering, and it worked well.