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?‘?°?»?????°́?‚??: to spoil


Several residents of the somewhat narrow circle of language geeks that I inhabit sent me an article about the reappearance of Russian words that are "markers" of poverty. It's a nice article, and possibly a valid hypothesis. But I'm not convinced. For example, the writer says that the word ?»?°?????????‚?????? (to have a treat, to feast on) disappeared for about 10 years but has re-emerged to describe enjoying what should be an ordinary meal: ?? ???µ???????? ???????????°?? ???µ?±?µ ?????€???†?? ?????»?°?????????‚??????. (I use my pension to buy myself a chicken for a treat.) But the problem is: Did the word ?»?°?????????‚?????? really disappear for a decade? And is that a real marker of poverty, or the sign of a woman who just loves a chicken dinner?

I don't know — but in any case, the article reminded me of a wonderful assortment of words to describe one of life's greatest pleasures: eating.

?›?°?????????‚?????? describes the enjoyment of any kind of delicacy. Most of the time it's food: ?›??????, ?????‚???€?‹?µ ?»?°?????????‚???? ?????????»?°?????? ???°?¶???‹?? ???µ????, ?¶???????‚ ?????»?????µ ?‚?µ?…, ?????‚???€?‹?µ ?µ???? ???????±?‰?µ ???µ ?µ?????‚. (People who enjoy some chocolate every day live longer than people who don't eat it at all.) But occasionally the delicacy is figurative: ?? ?»?°?????????»???? ???‚???? ???????‚?????????? ???°???€?°?????? ?·?° ?????? ?????±?µ???‹. (I savored the worthy reward for my victories.)

The verb has a related noun — ?»?°?????????‚???? (delicacy). This usually means a sweet: ?????»?????µ???????°?? ???°???‚???»?° — ???‚?? ?·?°?±?‹?‚???µ ?€???????????µ ?»?°?????????‚????. (Kolomna pastila is a forgotten Russian confectionary.) But it can mean anything delicious: ?§?µ?€???°?? ?????€?° — ?»?°?????????‚???? ?†?°?€?µ??! (Black caviar is food fit for a tsar.) But it has a different meaning in the pet shop: ???°???? ?????±?°???? ???‚?»???‡???? ???±???‡?°?»?????? ???µ?‚???????? ???????‰?€?µ?????? ?·?° ?»?°?????????‚????. (We trained our dogs really successfully using the method of treat rewards.)

Somewhat confusingly, there's another related noun — ?»?°?????????° (gourmand, i.e., someone who enjoys good food). This often refers to someone with a sweet tooth — ???»?°???????µ?¶???° — but also anyone who knows and loves good food. He's not just a good eater: ???? ?±?‹?» ?»?°?????????°, ???µ ???€?????‚?? ???±?¶???€?»????. (He was a gourmand, not just a glutton.)

?›?°?????????° is also the name given to Wednesday during ???°???»?µ?????†?° (the week before Lent): ???° ?»?°?????????? ?‚?µ?‰?? ???€?????»?°???°?»?? ???° ?±?»?????‹ ?·???‚???µ?? ?? ?¶?µ???°????. (On Gourmand Wednesday, mothers-in-law used to invite their sons-in-law and their wives for bliny.)

To help you keep this straight: ?›?°?????????° ?»?°?????????‚???? ?»?°?????????‚???°???? ???° ?»?°?????????µ. (A gourmand enjoys delicacies on Wednesday during Pancake Week.) See? Easy-peasy.

You may also hear the word ???µ?»?????°?‚?µ?? (delicacy) to describe any luxury food or prepared dish. ???? ?????µ?? ???µ?»?????°?‚?µ???°?? ???€?µ???????‡???‚?°?µ?‚ ???????‘?????? ?€?‹?±??. (Of all the delicacies in the world, he prefers dried fish.)

Russians are always a bit disappointed the first time they enter an American delicatessen and find bagels with a shmear instead of luxury foods. But in Russia, English speakers are surprised that you don't become a gastronome (a person who loves good food), but go into one — ???°???‚?€???????? — to buy your groceries.

To sidestep some of the confusion caused by words borrowed from the French, you might use the homegrown word ?±?°?»?????°?‚?? (to spoil) to describe treating yourself or others to something especially tasty. ?›?µ?‚???? ?€?°?±???‚?????°?‚?µ?»?? ?±?°?»?????‚ ?????????… ?????‚?€?????????????? ?„?€?????‚?°???? ?? ?????€???¶?µ???‹??. (During the summer, employers spoil their workers with fruit and ice cream.)

Sound like your office? Yeah, right. ? ?µ?°?»?????????‚?? ???µ ?±?°?»???µ?‚ ???°?? ?‚?°???????? ?…???€?????????? ???????????‚??????. (Reality doesn't spoil us with such good news.)

Michele A. Berdy, a Moscow-based translator and interpreter, is author of "The Russian Word's Worth" (Glas), a collection of her columns.

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