Karelia is a republic in North-West Russia, with the capital Petrozavodsk. Fragments of ancient archaeological artefacts show that humans appeared in these lands in the seventh millenium B.C. The area is still inhabited by its indigenous people, descendants of the Karels and Veps.

The Karelian rocks are a medium bringing us cryptic messages from the ancient inhabitants of the region. Long before the advent of writing, people communicated and reflected their thoughts through images. These could be made by either paint on stone (cave paintings) or carved out by stone or metal tools, in which case they are called petroglyphs or engravings.

The Karelian petroglyphs are unique specimens of hunting rock art from the Neolithic period. Some scenes are world masterpieces of primitive art. Petroglyphs are carved only into two places in Karelia: on the headlands and islands of Lake Onega and on the banks of the river Vyg, where it empties into the White Sea. Choosing a suitable location for the petroglyphs was no easy matter, since the place was supposed to possess magical powers. And the rock faces themselves had to be smooth, polished by waves and ice. Lake Onega's crags are also unique because they form a pristine natural landscape, preserved almost intact. Around the Besov Nos area in July and August you can see two luminaries — the sun and moon — in the sky simultaneously. This of course made a deep impression on primitive man, and still makes an indelible impression today.

The most important characteristic of this region is that its relatively small area holds 27,000 rivers and 60,000 lakes, among the most beautiful and largest of which are Onega and Ladoga, Topozero, Segozero and Pyaozero. There are excellent opportunities for outdoor activities: rafting, hiking, biking, and horseriding. It is best to go to Karelia in summer because the climate is fairly cool, and frosts can occur even in June. Most of Karelia is covered in scenic forest, where a variety of mushrooms and berries grow: lingonberry, blueberry, cloudberry and bilberry, which are often found among the ingredients of traditional Karelian food.

Many rare animals and insects in Russia's Red Book of endangered species live in the area, for example the Swallowtail butterfly. There are over 550 species, and though the majority are tropical, members of the family are found on all continents except Antarctica. The family includes the largest butterflies in the world, the birdwing butterflies of Australia. Swallowtail butterflies, being large, colourful, and attractive, have been the target of butterfly collectors in earlier times.

The raccoon dog, wild polecat and American mink are also found in Karelia. You will be able to encounter the local fauna by spending time in remote and uninhabited places — a conducive environment could be rafting and several-day hiking tours with overnight stops at campsites.

Hunting is popular in autumn and winter. Local hunting societies and groups have greatly increased the quality of their services in recent years and can arrange memorable hunts for bear, moose, wild boar, wolves, upland fowl and waterfowl in the most remote corners of Karelia. Of course, the abundance of water and distance from large settlements creates ideal conditions for productive summer and winter fishing.

Be sure to take mosquito repellent and clothing with long sleeves: In the warm season your journey will be hindered by swarms of insects, one of the drawbacks of the terrain. It is worth paying attention to the poor quality of the republic's roads, even the main highways: If you plan to make the trip by car, you need to be fully confident in its technical repair.

Petrozavodsk

Petrozavodsk is a classic of Soviet architecture. During World War II the city was heavily damaged, so most of the buildings you see were built in the 1950s. The main streets still bear their Soviet names. It is interesting to walk along the avenue named after Karl Marx, which until 1885 was called Angliiskaya Ulitsa, and later Mariinskaya Ulitsa. At the end of the avenue is Lenin Square, although its old name, Kruglaya (round) is still used. This is the oldest place in town, where people gathered for holidays and festivities as far back as the 17th century, a tradition that is continued even now. The Museum of Fine Arts has a collection of unique ancient Karelian icons, cast from copper, known as "Pomer (coast-dweller) casting."

Vintage Ships

The experts at the Polar Odyssey Museum accurately restore copies of old Russian ships from surviving documents, and not just exhibits, but working prototypes, which are then launched on unique marine voyages. Polar Odyssey's berth always has dozens of ships, which you can look round, including the inside. You can see a replica of Peter I's boat, or climb aboard the medieval koch Pomor. Koch is the name for the vessels used in this area for polar expeditions in the 15th and 16th centuries, the heyday of Russian Arctic exploration. There is also an ancient Russian boat called Love, the sort used for river and sea travel in the 12th century. Excursions can be organized.

Cathedrals of Petrozavodsk

The cathedral named after Alexander Nevsky was built in 1826-32 under the leadership of the Italian architect Pietro Maderni. Funds for its construction were raised by workers of the Alexandrovsky factory. Near the cathedral are several monuments — a statue of defender of the Russian lands Alexander Nevsky, and a monument to the emergency crews who worked at Chernobyl. One of the city's most beautiful cathedrals is the Church of the Exaltation of the Cross. The stone building was built in 1848 in place of the wooden church that was here before. In Soviet times, like most church-owned buildings, the cathedral suffered hard times: In the 1930s nine of its bells were taken to be melted down. The local priests were sent into exile, and the services were conducted by women. An icon of Our Lady going by the name of "Soothe My Sorrows," which became famous for working miracles, is now kept in this church, whose grounds also includes Zaretskoye cemetery, the oldest in Petrozavodsk.

Kizhi Museum Reserve

One of Russia's largest open-air museums, telling about the local culture, history and ethnography. Situated on its eponymous island, the Kizhi churchyard ensemble is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is a real "eighth wonder of the world," a masterpiece of ancient wooden architecture, built, as they say, without a single nail. The two unusually designed, many-domed churches and belltowers enclosed within a single fence exist in perfect harmony with the surrounding landscape. Kizhi churchyard is an outstanding example of the architecture typical of sparsely populated medieval Orthodox settlements. The Church of the Transfiguration, built in 1714, is the ensemble's most famous building. Its prototype is even more ancient than the Church of the Holy Virgin (1708) in the Vologda region. The vicinity is great for trekking, and the surviving houses present excellent opportunities for exploring the traditional culture of the Olonets Karelians.

Ruskeala Mountain Park

Near the village Ruskeala there are picturesque marble quarries in the mountain park and nearby, from which the stone was used to build the palaces of St. Petersburg and other Russian cities since the 17th century. This place is unique in that human activity has not destroyed its natural Karelian beauty, but rather complemented it. The quarries are no longer in operation, and some of them are flooded. In one of the walls is the park's special distinguishing feature — a marble grotto. You can take a boat and ride on the artificial ponds, or go on interesting speleological expeditions. The place is popular among cave and cavern divers, who plunge into the caves and grottos (only possible with an experienced instructor). A picturesque hiking trail runs around the quarry.

Valaam Transfiguration Monastery

The Valaam archipelago on Lake Ladoga comprises 50 islands. Once the island of Valaam was home to a pagan sanctuary of the Finno-Ugric tribes, but Orthodox monks began to settle here in at least the 10th century. In 1611, the monastery was completely destroyed by the Swedes, and only in 1715 rehabilitation was begun on the reclaimed territory on the orders of Peter I. From 1785 brick temples and communal housing started to appear, and soon the monastery became a center of Orthodox life. In the 18th century Valaam seethed with life: There were candle, brick and resin plants, and the local people farmed the land. Now the island trade is fishing, and you can try traditional fish dishes in the monastery refectory. Near the main homestead is an apple orchard, which is already 300 years old and is extraordinarily beautiful when the trees are in bloom.

St. Nicholas Skete

The skete (a relatively isolated community attached to a monastery) is located two kilometers from the main monastery complex at Monastery Bay. It is a fantastic route for a walk. The building, built in the 18th century, is considered one of the most beautiful on Valaam: towering strikingly on an island, linked to the mainland by wooden walkways. The monks here acted as customs officials, inspecting vessels that sailed into Monastery Bay. The old customs building has survived to this day. Beside it stands a granite cross, set up in 1861. The skete and monastery look especially beautiful from a boat trip on Lake Ladoga.

Igumen Cemetery

Another route for trekking round the island leads through the magnificent Valaam scenery from the monastery's main building to Igumen cemetery. The avenue of Siberian fir you pass through was planted here in 1876 by order of Father Damascus. It has the freshest air imaginable, scented with a coniferous aroma. Not much remains of the cemetery itself, however, the best preserved piece being a cross erected in the late 19th century. The picturesque surroundings absolutely lend themselves to fascinating walks. Here you can combine trekking on a simple route with fishing. On a hill nearby stands a church and belfry in the name of the Reverend Fathers. Everything is built from bricks produced by the Valaam monks. It is also very interesting to follow this route by bike or on horseback, then stay at the campsite.

Kivach Falls

One of Karelia's main natural treasures are the Kivach Falls on the Suna River. Falling from a height of almost 11 meters, it is the second largest cascade waterfall in Europe, after the Rhine. Thousands of tourists come every year to admire the rapidly foaming water. In 1868, Emperor Alexander II came to look at the waterfall. A good paved road was laid specially for his arrival, along with a bridge across the river Suna, a gazebo on the right bank and lodgings for the night on the left. Near the waterfall is the Kivach State Nature Reserve.

Rafting on the River Keret

One of Russia's most exciting rafting routes is along the Karelian river Keret. The name comes from the Sami "giera," which translates as "mountain top." Keret joins together a long string of lakes, in places very wide and deep. The route is well suited to both beginners and experienced river professionals, and spring, summer and autumn are all good for rafting. The first leg of your trip is from Petrozavodsk to the small town of Loukhi. Throughout the whole rafting trip you will be surrounded by pristine wilderness as the route passes through unpopulated areas. A good culmination to your holiday could be an overnight stay on one of the uninhabited islands in the White Sea, where you can walk in the hills, watch the sunrise and sunset or go fishing.